We set off under a clear starry sky at 6 am for the 4th Kora. There was no rest day after the 3rd Kora. I took a few photos during the approximately 5-hour walk until we reached the Derakpu shelter. At Derakpu, breakfast and lunch were campa and Tibetan noodles.

While we were eating our food, Kailash slowly released the clouds that had wrapped around it and stood out brilliantly from its surroundings. It was a fantastic sight. We packed our things and went up to the hill above the Derakpu shelter, from where there was a magnificent view of Kailash. I prayed in front of the mountain for a while and then we took photos in various settings, including with the Hungarian flag of Grabensia.

After we were done with the photo shoot, we headed towards the Dolma La Pass. This time the wind was not as cold and oxygen-deficient as during the 3rd Kora. At the entrance to the Dolma La Pass, not long behind me, I noticed a strikingly pretty girl... Mostly because in her style and movements, the person of my wife from 20 years ago appeared before me... I held my breath and waited.

I saw that he was Chinese and we started talking. He came from Chongqing, he is 30 years old, he has an 8 year old son. He is not a believer but he likes to climb mountains. He came completely alone. We talked a lot and during that time we even made it over the Dolma La Pass. We were not in a hurry, we walked leisurely so it was about 8 pm by the time we reached the valley to the Shaptin shelter.

I had tried to sleep here before but I really didn't like it, so we continued walking in the valley to the next shelter. Those who cross the mountain usually sleep in the first shelter. I had already slept in the second shelter once and it was acceptable. It takes another 1 hour to reach the second shelter. Since there is only one time zone in China, the sun is still shining at 1:30 pm... The mountains present a fantastic picture as they tower over the valley on both sides. Some look like stupas, others like temples... but as they say here, each mountain is the palace of a Goddess or Deity...

When we got to the 2nd shelter, we sat down in the simple teahouse and I ordered a Tibetan noodle soup. This one had square noodles, there was also a long noodle one... they are the same in that the noodles are not cooked all the way through... it's like when I first cooked noodles as a child and took them out halfway through... so the noodles here are hard... Kalsang says this is Tibetan noodle soup... and the noodles are really not cooked soft anywhere. But that's completely irrelevant after walking 40 km after we also crossed the pass, this food is heaven itself... and what's more, I can sit next to the fire cooking place and warm up... a fantastic experience for a tired body and soul.

This is the first time I've passed out in bed in the dormitory and slept for more than 8 hours. Until now, I had trouble sleeping due to the lack of oxygen. Now I slept well.

At 7 am I woke up the lady in the small cafe, she made me a big pot of black tea and I waited for Kalsang and his younger brother to wake up. In the meantime the cafe quickly filled up. A cafe like this looks like there are 2 benches for 3 people facing each other, with a table in between. There are 8-10 of these places in the small room. Since the room quickly filled up and I was alone on a bench, people kept asking me to come over, which I didn't mind at all. So we always got into conversations with someone.

Kalsang didn't come until 8:30 am, by then I had already talked to 3 families.

They were having breakfast and I was making tea. A family from Chengdu, China, came, a mother and father with a disabled little boy and his sister... a respectful, simple family. They were Buddhists, they walked around the mountain carrying their disabled 8-year-old boy.
A couple from Zhejiang, they paint mountains, they make a living from selling their paintings, they travel a lot in the Himalayas.
A Tibetan family from Shigatse, the second most important city in Tibet. A very pretty 30 year old lady with her younger brother and a relative are touring the area in 2 days... In the meantime, they tell us about their lives, why they come to the area... interesting.
Even more interesting is that since the Chinese language does not set any boundaries, we can talk about everything as citizens of the same country. For foreigners, the language problem is an insurmountable barrier in getting to know the people here. By now, most Tibetans speak Chinese well, especially the young people who go to Chinese schools but use their own language just as much.

Kalsang showed up around 8:30, we quickly made a campa and what was fantastic was that he somehow managed to get a good portion of yogurt made from fresh yak milk... it was so delicious that I finished the campa. Campa is very nutritious anyway.

Around 9 we set off towards the Dzidüpu Temple. The goal was to write on the Hungarian flag in Tibetan with the local lama: Tibet, Kailash Kora, and then I would draw the stars underneath according to how many circles we make.

I was in very good shape and in a little over 2 hours we were at the Dzidüpu temple. This is the temple where Milarepa meditated in his cave and where I was lucky enough to meditate for half an hour in the same cave as Milarepa.

The lama listened to what I wanted, all he asked was that he could not bring the flag into the temple because the Chinese authorities strictly forbid such things and there are cameras. in the sanctuary and in the courtyard. So he wrote the above on the flag on the inner bench of the small relic shop in the courtyard. It is a big thing that the lama of the temple who lives in Milarepa's holy place wrote on the flag, blessed the flag. I gave a donation to the temple and bought sacred objects.

We already knew each other in the temple cafe because we had slept here before, the cafe manager showed us the inherited malas, an interesting person also appeared who had particularly valuable malas around his neck... again a conversation. They told us about their ancestors, family, customs. The older ones don't speak Chinese well, but the younger ones translate right away, so there are no communication problems. Nice people.

We continued our journey and met up with those we had talked to at breakfast... again some conversation as "old acquaintances"... the rest of the journey was spent in a good mood and by 3 pm we were in Darchen at the small hotel. At such times, when we arrive after a kora, the first stop is the small shop where I buy fruits: apples, oranges, bananas, these are what I miss the most after walking.

Now that I am after the 4th kora, I am starting to feel that the spirituality here has taken a deeper root in me and I am starting to see that the virtue of humility is the path I need to take. To do this, I need to achieve that calmness from which no one can shake me.

After I got to the hotel, I unpacked, fell into bed and slept for more than 4 hours until 8 pm... my stomach was craving hot food so I went to the Hunan restaurant on the street in front of the hotel for a hot vegetable soup.

Another "earthly" person from Shenzhen came up and we had a long conversation... He has been going to Kailash regularly for more than twenty years, so far he has done more than 40 kloras around the mountain... well, I myself am dwarfed by this greatness... Ms. Wang is also doing her 13th kora... And I am now doing her 4th kora... But the happiness after finishing today's 4th kora surpassed everything before.

Tomorrow I will rest, the day after tomorrow the 5th-6th kora will be continuous, 114 km in 3 days.